What’s in my Dabba? with Rege Batchu

No Bombay kitchen is complete without its Masala Dabba, a stainless-steel box, worn and battered, passed down through the generations. Each is as unique as its owner, full of most-favoured spices and many-varied stories within. In our ‘What’s In My Dabba?’ series, we get a glimpse into some of our friends’ kitchens, as they share the judicious spicing of their favourite dishes, along with hosting rituals, tips and stories. Delight awaits.

In this instalment, we sit down with Rege Batchu, creator of Punjabi recipe hub Bad and Bhaji. Rege shares judicious seasoning advice (including a time-tested tip for salvaging over-salted dishes), memories of one-cup-of-tea visits extending into gloriously generous affairs, along with a precious family recipe for butternut squash sabji – humble vegetables made magnificent.

➻ What’s in your Masala Dabba?

My on-the-counter dabba holds the spices I use every day. Jeera (cumin), haldi (turmeric), dhania (coriander), homemade garam masala and salt. Other than that, there are roughly 20 spice jars for other dishes, including whole spices and mixes.

➻ Which spices are you reaching for most often while cooking, and why?

Honestly, in Punjabi cooking, haldi and garam masala are staples. They go into pretty much every sabji, daal or dish I make. When cooking, I tend to add garam masala towards the end. Lots of dishes require spices mid-process, but for a lot of Punjabi food, garam masala goes in last to lift everything. It’s also worth saying – homemade garam masala is worth it every single time.

➻ What are some of your earliest memories of cooking?

They’re all of my mum. Paratha on a Saturday morning, ghee smoking on the tawa. A daal or sabji on the go, vegetables chopped by hand. Fresh herbs out on the side, lentils soaking, the whistle of the pressure cooker. Those sounds and smells filled the house – and still take me straight back.

I’ve cooked from a young age, but I started properly cooking Punjabi food at university (because I was craving it). I called my mum, and we discussed a chicken curry. It was a lot of “a bit of this, a handful of that.” That first chicken curry for my mates was the start of it all – trying to recreate home, one phone call at a time.

➻ What’s on the menu for us today, and why have you chosen this dish?

Today it’s butternut squash sabji (a recipe adapted from a similar pumpkin curry my grandma used to make). I absolutely love this dish, but rarely find it cooked outside our household. Sabjis don’t get the flowers they deserve. When people think of Indian food, they go straight to the big curries or daal, but vegetables can be made so flavoursome, so delicious, and so simple all at once. By chance, it’s also quick, naturally vegan and gluten-free. Whenever I serve it, it’s a real fan favourite across all ages.

➻ What are your top tips for cooking with spices?

The biggest lesson I've learned is not to burn whole spices while blooming them. Gently heat the oil, drop in your spices (e.g. cumin, fenugreek, cloves, bay leaves, cinnamon), keep eyes on the pan until they’re just fragrant, then move on to your garlic, onions or whatever comes next. The whole spices set the foundation, so getting them right is everything. Don’t rush it!

The other tip I always pass on: if you ever oversalt a dish, don’t stress. Drop in a peeled potato or a rolled-up piece of atta dough for a few minutes. Both of them pull out the salt and save the dish.

➻ How are you welcoming guests to the table?

Welcoming guests to the table starts with the build-up. When people arrive, they’re offered hot or cold drinks straight away, with a few nibbles on the side. Mathia and matthi (crispy, spiced Punjabi snacks) are shared while we chat. Once we move to the table, there’s a spread for starters and family-style mains. It’s a way of hosting I picked up at home and have made my own.

Last time I had friends round, I put out fish pakoras and paneer tikka with a green chutney to start, then a chicken curry, butternut squash sabji, roti, raita and achaar (pickle). Finished with a pistachio tres leches. I do a lot of baking, so it could be a traditional Punjabi mithai or something I’ve been wanting to try.

➻ Can you tell us of a ritual that you swear by when hosting friends and family?

If someone drops in just for a quick visit, there’s no leaving until they’ve been properly fed. People might say they’re full, but, realistically, I’ve never seen anyone leave our house without having a little bit of something! Even popping in for a cup of tea, you’re walking out with (at least) a few pieces of mithai in hand.