What’s in my Dabba? with Priyesh Patel

No Bombay kitchen is complete without its Masala Dabba, a stainless-steel box, worn and battered, passed down through the generations. Each is as unique as its owner, full of most-favoured spices and many-varied stories within. In our ‘What’s In My Dabba?’ series, we get a glimpse into some of our friends’ kitchens, as they share the judicious spicing of their favourite dishes, along with hosting rituals, tips and stories. Delight awaits.

In this chapter, we sit down with Priyesh Patel, part of the family that owns Londis N16 – a cherished Stoke Newington corner shop, offering everyday provisions alongside home-cooked Gujarati delights. Priyesh reflects on his most-reached-for spices, childhood recollections of veritable breakfast feasts, and the dishes that made it glorious.

➻ What’s in your Masala Dabba?

Cumin seeds, turmeric, caraway seeds, chilli powder, mustard seeds, garam masala and fenugreek seeds. When the lid lifts, the first scent that hits me is either cumin or garam masala. However, it’s hard to really decipher what I’m smelling; all the spices have unique aromas, and when fresh, they’re super pungent. The smell reminds me of home – the start of every good meal.

➻ Which spices are you reaching for most often while cooking, and why?

Definitely cumin. It’s so versatile, works in a variety of cuisines and has different flavour profiles and uses, depending on whether it’s ground or whole. I also love caraway seeds. Every Saturday, it’s tradition in our family to make baked beans for lunch at the shop – we always use a tadka of caraway and mustard seeds for flavour, along with chillies and garlic.

➻ Which specific snack on the Londis N16’s shelves instantly transports you back to your family’s kitchen table?

We used to eat McVitie's Jamaica Ginger Sticky Pudding Cake soaked in milk when we lived above the shop. Thankfully, you can still find it everywhere; they really remind me of growing up.

➻ What’s on the menu for us today, and why have you chosen this dish?

Today we’re making batata poha, a common breakfast dish made with batata (potato), poha (flattened rice flakes), pomegranate, cashews and spices. Indian breakfast dishes are my favourite. During childhood, we’d often wake up to batata poha, makai no chevdo and tikhi puri, always with chai. Now that I no longer live at home, I see the value in waking up to a spread like that. Find the recipe for batata poha here.

➻ What are your top tips for cooking with spices?

More is more. Initially, when I started cooking Indian food, I was scared to add too much spice. But, for me, you only notice a difference when you haven’t used enough.

➻ What’s a ritual you swear by when hosting friends and family?

Make lots and extra to take home!

➻ You serve home-cooked dishes in your shop – what has it been like seeing traditional Gujarati flavours become a weekly ritual for the wider N16 community?

This has been heartwarming and healing for us. Sometimes, growing up with one culture at home and another one out the door can feel strange. Serving traditional dishes brings those two cultures together – especially when people come into the shop and specifically request muthia! It’s given us a newfound appreciation for the cooking we grew up with.